Teens and tweens have a growing skincare obsession perpetuated by fresh-faced underage influencers hawking elaborate, expensive routines. A new peer-reviewed study, published in Pediatrics by researchers at Northwestern University, found that girls as young as seven are following routines that are doing more harm than good. The news confirms the fears many parents have about introducing skincare to their children, but experts say there are ways to do it safely. This is how.
The study highlighted the overabundance of active ingredients being applied to teen skin through these routines. This includes “citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and salicylic acid,” all of which are “mild chemical exfoliants known for their anti-aging effects,” said Parents. There is little benefit from these exfoliants for “tweens and teens who do not have acne and who certainly don’t have sun spots or wrinkles yet,” said Molly Hales, the study author and professor at Northwestern University.
Tweens and teens do not need to follow elaborate 10-step skincare routines, board-certified dermatologist Kristin Baird said to the outlet. “A gentle cleanser, moisturizer and daily SPF are often more than enough to support healthy skin.”
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Incorporate sunscreen
One of the most alarming findings in the study is that only 26% of the elaborate skincare regimens observed included sunscreen, “arguably the most important product for any age range, but especially for kids,” said Real Simple. Broad-spectrum SPF, “ideally in a gentle mineral formulation,” should be a “foundational part of any daytime skincare routine starting in childhood.” Starting to protect skin early from UV damage is “far more impactful than any trending serum or mask.”
Seek a dermatologist’s input for acne concerns
While many teens will be fine with a pared-down routine of just a cleanser, sunscreen and moisturizer, some might have persistent acne problems. As children near puberty, they may “produce more acne-causing hormones,” said CNN.
In those cases, Sonal Shah, the director of pediatric dermatology at University Hospitals Rainbow Babies & Children’s Hospital, recommends trying over-the-counter products that contain either salicylic acid or a low percentage of benzoyl peroxide. Teen skin care “does not have to be complicated and does not have to be very expensive.” Parents can talk to a board-certified dermatologist or pediatric dermatologist “if there are skin concerns that are significant or don’t respond to over-the-counter treatment.”
Monitor what your kids watch — but keep an open mind
If your tween or teen appears to be drawn to a social media skincare trend that could be harmful to their skin barrier, as well as their self-esteem, it may be best to try to limit their exposure to popular skinfluencers. The first step is to “limit access to TikTok and other social media until your tween is older, 13 and up,” Molly O’Shea, pediatrician and spokesperson for the Academy of American Pediatrics, said to Parents.
For older kids, it is essential to try to understand the social aspect of youth beauty and wellness content, Hales said to CNN. The videos show a “kind of playful self-expression that’s very appealing to this age group,” she said. This is especially true for “girls who are just starting to develop their own sense of independent identity, how they present (themselves) in the world, their gender identity and in many cases what it means to be a girl in our society.”
Talk about your concerns
Most important is to address your concerns directly with your children. It is best to “have open conversations with children about the messages they see on social media, as well as their own intentions behind purchasing particular skincare products,” Jennifer Harriger, a professor of psychology at Pepperdine University, said to CNN.
Ask them questions about why they feel drawn to certain skincare trends. Often, Baird said to Parents, “they’re looking for control, confidence or a sense of belonging, not just better skin”
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