Hair care, precision and science: brand Q&A

As the hair care category continues to become more ‘skin-ified’ and more science-driven, we heard from Scientist Innovation & Research at Dutch hair care company Keune Haircosmetics, Vincent van’t Hof, who will be speaking about the topic at the In-Cosmetics Global event in Amsterdam in April.

Cosmetics Design-Europe (CDE): What can you tell us about the future of haircare?

Vincent van’t Hof (VVH) The haircare industry is rapidly evolving, with cutting-edge scientific techniques like bioengineering and biotechnology driving high-performance products that also embrace eco-conscious practices, offering sustainable solutions for consumers. As consumers seek effective, science-backed solutions, there is growing demand for products that address specific concerns, from hair growth to damage repair.

CDE: What factors are driving innovation in this category now?

VVH: Innovation is being driven by technological advances in ingredients, particularly those focused on bioengineering and sustainable sourcing. For example, biotechnologically derived peptides are becoming crucial for strengthening hair, while blue biotechnology-utilising marine organisms like algae and seaweed provides rich antioxidants, minerals, and amino acids that support scalp health, protect hair from environmental stress and promote growth.

Additionally, customised haircare is gaining interest as consumers become more aware of their hair type and conditions. Tools like hair analysis quizzes and AI-powered algorithms now offer personalised product and routine recommendations based on individual hair needs and preferences.

The haircare industry is increasingly embracing the science-backed, efficacy-driven approach of skin care. Since hair is biologically dead and cannot repair itself naturally, external treatments become essential for maintaining and restoring its health. As consumers become more informed and proactive in researching the products they use, this shift will drive a stronger emphasis on clinical trials and the development of targeted ingredients.

CDE: Is hair loss/growth now a major area of focus for Keune Haircosmetics?

VVH: Yes, hair loss and growth remain key areas of focus in haircare. As concerns about hair loss and thinning hair grow, consumers are increasingly seeking effective treatments. A disrupted scalp microbiome can contribute to various hair-related conditions, emphasising that healthy hair begins with a healthy scalp. Medical treatments often focus on minoxidil for hair regrowth. In line with cosmetic regulations, we focus more on natural extracts, stem cell technologies and prebiotics to target this area.

CDE: Do you expect haircare innovation to include more ingestible products? If so, why?

VVH: Consumers are increasingly aware that hair health is influenced by lifestyle factors like stress and diet, in addition to genetics. While supplements that claim to support hair health are available, there is not yet sufficient scientific evidence to fully validate their effectiveness.

When there is more scientific evidence, it can have potential, but ingestible products are also subject to food and pharmaceutical regulations, which adds complexity for cosmetic brands in this area.

CDE: How are the needs and demands of haircare consumers evolving?

VVH: Consumers are now more aware of their hair type, texture and specific conditions, leading them to do more research about products that support their unique needs, whether it’s frizz control, hair growth or scalp health. The demand for efficiency is rising due to busy lifestyles. There’s a noticeable shift toward products that offer multiple high performing benefits while saving time – examples include leave in conditioners or serums that target various concerns, from frizz control to nourishment.

CDE: What else will be important in terms of haircare in the future?

VVH: The beauty industry is increasingly driven by innovation, sustainability, and consumer demand for targeted, science-backed solutions. But regulations will continue to play a significant role in shaping product development, particularly as safety standards evolve and stricter ingredient regulations are implemented. While these changes impact the formulation process, consumers may not always be aware of them, but they will expect similar or better performance.

Vincent van’t Hof, Scientist Innovation & Research, Keune Haircosmetics, will be speaking at the In-Cosmetics Global show at the RAI Amsterdam in a session entitled ‘The Future of Haircare – Precision & Science-driven Solutions for Every Strand.’